Join me in Kingstown, St. Vincent as we wander the historic Botanical Gardens, clamber up Fort Charlotte, haggle at the bustling market, chase perfect sunsets, and savor local eats.
Great Huts: Eco Paradise on the Edge
Paradise on the Edge in Portland
Duration: at least 3 days
Budget: $ 125 per day
For years I sat on Boston Bay’s sand, staring at the high cliff across the water. I could just make out a pair of stone pools clinging to the edge and a wooden gate marked Great Huts. I kept wondering, What’s up there?
Last month I finally found out. Two friends and I booked the Seagrape Hut for a long weekend, and the place turned out to be even more magical than the view suggested. Yet nothing prepared me for waking up in Seagrape Hut, twenty feet above a riot of sea-grape leaves, with the Caribbean rolling in below. Great Huts had been on my radar for years, a place friends described as “an Afro-centric village perched on a cliff.” Last weekend three of us finally booked in, and within minutes of arriving we were trading high-fives—this was the Portland we’d been craving.
Paradise on the Edge
Great Huts occupies a 100-foot escarpment at the eastern end of Boston Bay, a breezy ten-minute ride from laid-back Port Antonio. Dr Paul Rhodes, a New York physician turned hotelier, bought the land in 2001 after falling hard for Portland’s wild, wave-lashed coastline. His vision was radical for the time: build a resort that honours Jamaica’s African ancestry, uses mostly natural materials, and folds the local community into its success. Two decades on, the place feels less like a hotel and more like a living artwork of bamboo beams, thatch roofs, and hand-carved doors that tell stories of the transatlantic journey and Jamaica’s resilient spirit.
Staying at Great Huts: Africa meets Jamaica
The moment we pushed past the gate, Portland’s bustle faded. Narrow pathswound through almond trees, then opened onto a bluff 100 feet above the sea. Everywhere I looked, bamboo railings, thatched roofs, and bright murals told the story of Africa in Jamaica. This look isn’t an accident. The owner, Dr Paul Rhodes, bought the land in 2001 to build a village-style hideaway that honors Jamaica’s roots while protecting the coast he loves (Great Huts Resort | Paradise On The Edge).
Our hut perched halfway up the cliff, wrapped in real sea-grape branches. Inside were two cozy bedrooms draped with mosquito nets, a tiny sitting area, and shutters that swung wide to catch the trade winds. The outdoor shower was my favorite spot—watching frigatebirds glide past while water rushed over my toes felt unreal.
A Day-Pass for Everyone Else
Want a taste of Great Huts without an overnight stay? Snag a day-pass. It costs US $30 for entry, or US $50 if you’d like lunch thrown in. Numbers are capped, so send a quick WhatsApp to +1 876 353 3388 the day before to lock it in.
Once past the gate, the whole playground is yours. Start with a lazy float in the cliff-top saltwater pools—nothing beats that first cool plunge. Claim a hammock under the palms, close your eyes, and let the sea breeze and tree-frog chorus work their magic.
When you’re ready, follow the stone steps down to the tiny private beach. The sand is nearly empty, the water crystal-clear, and the lava-rock wall just offshore teems with bright parrotfish.
Need a break from the sun? Head up to the open-air Safari Deck. Order a chilled sorrel or a tangy lime-ginger juice, and enjoy the surrounding art. By sunset you’ll understand why people whisper about this place from the other side of Boston Bay—it feels like your own secret slice of Portland.
Cliffside Days
Great Huts is a choose-your-own-adventure kind of place. Sunrise yoga on the wooden deck is pure magic. We stretched while the sky glowed pink and the sea roared below. By the final pose, the sun was up and the whole bay felt alive.
After breakfast—ackee, plantain, and the fluffiest festivals—we climbed down a ladder to a hidden cove for a salty swim. The water is clear as glass. I snorkeled along the lava rocks and watched neon parrotfish dart past.
When the surf picked up, we walked five minutes to Boston Bay, rented boards, and paddled out. On lazy afternoons we lounged in the cliffside pools I’d always seen from the beach. Floating there, eye-level with frigatebirds, felt like hanging off the edge of the world.
Starlit Nights
When darkness settled, we each found our own perch—sometimes a hammock strung between palms, other times the smooth edge of the stone pool. From these little hideaways we could lie back, count a sky full of stars, and let the soundtrack wash over us: waves crashing below, tree frogs chirping in the bush, a distant drumbeat drifting from the bonfire. In those moments it felt like the whole cliff belonged to us, a secret balcony suspended between sea and jungle.
Portland Beyond the Gates
Because the resort sits at the fringe of Boston Bay, adventure is never far. We strolled five minutes to the jerk stalls where smoke curls from oil-drum grills all day long; order the pork with extra pepper sauce and an ice-cold Ting. A quick route-taxi ride whisked us to Winnifred Beach for late-afternoon swims, and we tacked on a Blue Lagoon stop just for that surreal turquoise glow. Yet each outing ended the same way—eager to hurry back to our cliff-top nook before sunset painted the sea peach and mauve.
More Than a Pretty View- Sustainability at Great Huts
Staying here does real good for Portland. Part of every booking helps fund the Portland Rehabilitation Management Homeless Shelter, the only 24-hour facility of its kind on Jamaica’s east coast (Great Huts Resort | Paradise On The Edge). Buildings rely on bamboo, local stone, and rain-water catchments, cutting down concrete and waste. Guests can also bring school supplies for nearby classrooms.
Great Huts’ green credentials aren’t marketing fluff. Solar water heaters warm the showers; rain-water catchment reduces mains usage; and most structures rely on bamboo, coconut trunk, and reclaimed hardwood rather than concrete. More impressive is the social footprint: a slice of every room rate funds the Portland Rehabilitation Management Homeless Shelter, the only full-time facility of its kind on Jamaica’s east coast and a project Dr Rhodes helped launch in 2007. Guests are encouraged to “Pack for a Purpose,” bringing school supplies or basic meds that staff distribute to nearby communities.
Quick Tips If You Go
- Getting there: Allow about three hours from Kingston; download offline maps before the mountain bends.
- Cash matters: Keep small Jamaican bills for jerk pork across the road and red-plate taxis into Port Antonio.
- Pack light: Sneakers for rocky paths, reef-safe sunscreen, and a dry bag for cliff-jump sessions. Leave the fancy clothes—bare feet rule here.
Practical travel tips for Portland & Jamaica
Which language is spoken in Jamaica?
P
The official language is English, but you'll also hear Jamaican Patois spoken throughout the country. It's a colorful and vibrant mix of English, West African languages, and Spanish influences. Don't be afraid to interact with locals and try out some basic phrases in Patois - they'll appreciate the effort and you may even learn a thing or two.
What is the offical currency in Jamaica?
P
The Jamaican dollar is the official currency and is accepted everywhere on the island. However, US dollars are widely accepted as well, so it's always a good idea to have some cash in both currencies. You can easily exchange your money at banks or ATMs throughout the city. Just be aware that the exchange rate may vary, so it's best to check before making a transaction. Also, don't forget to tip - it's customary in Jamaica and greatly appreciated by service industry workers. So make sure you have some small bills on hand for tipping at restaurants, bars, and hotels.
What is the best time to visit Kingston?
P
The climate stays pleasant all year round. It might rain a bit more during hurricane season from June to September, but you still won't get bored on rainy days!
Kingston is home to many festival and events, so if you want to check them out, plan your dates accordingly.
Is Portland safe for travelers?
P
As a female traveler, I felt safe. Portland is very quiet at night and there is not so much going on. Downtown Port Antonio gets somewhat sketchy in the late hours.
Is there an ATM in Portland?
P
In Portland, getting Jamaican dollars from ATMs or exchanges is not always possible, especially in the villages. Get money in Port Antonio.
Public Transport in Portland, Jamaica
P
Route Taxis go around the Port Antonio area and even down to Fairy Hill and Boston Bay. The further South you go, the fewer Route Taxis on the roads.
Public Bus: The bus stop is downtown Port Antonio and Anotto Bay. I couldn't find a schedule. They seem to go more frequently than the Knutsford.
Be aware that the time stated refers to calculated driving time, not the actual time to reach a destination. Adding to the driving time are stops and bus switches which are not apparent when buying the ticket. Due to Covid, there are fewer buses than usual, and it is better to buy the ticket online.
Can I drink tap water in Jamaica?
P
Even though Jamaica is considered a third-world country, it provides the best water quality in the region. You are, therefore, safe to drink tap water. This is especially true in the cities. However, if it makes you feel uneasy, bring a water purifier.
What's the biggest challenge for the conscious traveler?
P
Tourism leakage: Jamaica is a tropical paradise that's adored by tourists worldwide, but it has a problem that's hidden from sight - tourism leakage. This phenomenon refers to the loss of revenue that occurs when international hotel chains capture a large chunk of tourist dollars, leaving very little money behind to benefit the local economy. If you're among the millions of visitors who flock to Jamaica every year, there's a simple way to help mitigate the effects of tourism leakage: support Jamaican-owned hotels, shops, and restaurants. By doing so, you can put your money where your heart is - and give the people of Jamaica a chance to thrive. So don't be shy about seeking out local businesses on your next vacation. Your decision to keep tourism dollars within Jamaica could make a world of difference.
Beach access
While Jamaica is known for its beautiful beaches, there have been some issues with access to these public spaces. In recent years, many resorts and private properties have restricted access to certain parts of the beach, making it incredibly difficult for locals to maintain their life and right to the sea. Support public beaches and say no to all-inclusive tourism!
Trash
Make sure to bring a foldable food container and cutlery with you! The amount of waste caused by food sold on the street is incredible.
Sunscreen
Make sure to protect Jamaica's marine life and bring reef-friendly sunscreen!
Packing List Jamaica
As you see, there are plenty of things to experience in Jamaica. To come fully prepared, check out my packing list for Jamaica, which includes everything from eco-friendly toiletries to sustainable fashion and even the coolest travel gadgets!
Traveling Jamaica?
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