Join me in Kingstown, St. Vincent as we wander the historic Botanical Gardens, clamber up Fort Charlotte, haggle at the bustling market, chase perfect sunsets, and savor local eats.
Chasing beaches in Portland, Jamaica
My Favourite Shores on Jamaica’s Wild Coast
Where to stay: Great Huts (also home to a magical beach)
Duration: at least one week
Budget: $ 125 per day
I’ve clocked a lot of sandy hours in Portland, and every beach hits a different note. Some roar with surf and reggae; others whisper under almond trees where you might share the shoreline with a goat. Many are community-run or sit on private land. If a gatekeeper asks for a couple hundred Jamaican dollars, pay it gladly—that small fee keeps bathrooms working, rubbish off the sand, and public rights intact.
Portland is Jamaica’s wild corner—no high-rise hotels, no strip-mall sameness—just shoreline stitched together by jerk smoke, river spray and the easy laughter of people who’ve known these beaches since childhood. I’ve spent weeks here, windows down, salt drying on my skin, letting the coast decide my schedule. Below are the sands I keep coming back to, plus a few handy notes so you can enjoy them without fuss.
(Many of these spots are community-run or sit on private land. When a gatekeeper asks for a small fee or donation, pay it happily—it keeps bathrooms working, rubbish off the sand, and public access alive.)
Winnifred Beach – Portland’s Living Room
Golden sand, jerk grills sizzling, domino tiles slapping tables. There’s no fixed ticket price—just a donation to the Free Winnifred Benevolent Society fighting to keep the beach open to everyone. Pay it, park under sea-grape trees, and follow the smoke toward Auntie Sharon’s jerk snapper. I stay till sunset; the water turns liquid gold and roots reggae drifts across the bay.
Best for: laid-back swims, cheap eats, strong community vibes
Boston Bay – Waves, Jerk & Adrenaline
Tiny cove, big attitude. A small gate fee covers lifeguards and showers. Rent a board right on the sand and chase the punchy lefts; if the swell’s heavy, grab a fresh coconut and watch the locals make it look easy. When hunger hits, cross the road to the legendary jerk pits—don’t skimp on pepper sauce.
Best for: surfers and kite-watchers, post-session jerk feasts, salty adrenaline
Frenchman’s Cove – Where River Kisses Sea
A jungle-green river glides under a wooden bridge into bright turquoise sea. Entry is JMD 2,000 (about US $13); daybeds run another few hundred if you plan to lounge. Dip in the cool fresh river, warm up a few strokes away in the sea, repeat.
Best for: families, “pinch-me” photos, gentle swims
San San Beach & Monkey Island – Calm Seas, Quick Escape
Mirror-flat water thanks to the offshore reef. Pay at the hut (about US $10–12), grab a snorkel, and drift over starfish-dotted seagrass. Feeling adventurous? Paddle a kayak or flag a fisherman to Monkey Island—ten minutes buys you white sand and lizard company.
Best for: first-time snorkellers, floating therapy, easy island hop
Great Huts’ Secret Cove – Hammocks in the Trees
Tucked behind a bamboo gate at Great Huts eco-lodge. Message +1 876 353 3388 first—day passes (US $30, or US $50 with lunch) are limited. Two cliff-edge plunge pools, a zig-zag stair to a pocket of sand, and just enough loungers for the lucky few. I snorkel along the lava rocks till my fingers prune, then climb to the deck for a cold sorrel and a bird’s-eye view of Boston Bay.
Best for: hammock naps, quiet snorkels, lunch with a view
Long Bay – A Mile of Freedom
Drive east until the road skims a mile-long arc of wild surf and weather-worn bars splashed in every colour Bob Marley ever wore. Park, claim your patch of sand, and mind the rips—this beach can be fierce. Sunset means Red Stripe in hand while locals kick football on the tide-packed flats.
Best for: body-surfing, room to roam, reggae-soaked sunsets
Fairy Hill’s Hidden Pockets – Treasure-Hunt Beaches
Between Boston and Long Bay, goat tracks peel off the highway to tiny coves rarely shared with more than a few footprints. Go with a local who knows the tides, carry out your rubbish, and treat the place like a secret you promised to keep.
Best for: total solitude, shell hunting, mermaid fantasies
Blue Lagoon Look-Out – Colour That Hurts Your Eyes
Swimming access comes and goes as land disputes drag on, but the lookout alone is worth a stop. The water glows electric blue—no filter needed. Snap a photo, sigh at the colour, and hope the community wins full access soon.
Best for: quick wow-factor photo, dreaming about future dips
Practical travel tips for Portland & Jamaica
Which language is spoken in Jamaica?
The official language is English, but you'll also hear Jamaican Patois spoken throughout the country. It's a colorful and vibrant mix of English, West African languages, and Spanish influences. Don't be afraid to interact with locals and try out some basic phrases in Patois - they'll appreciate the effort and you may even learn a thing or two.
What is the offical currency in Jamaica?
The Jamaican dollar is the official currency and is accepted everywhere on the island. However, US dollars are widely accepted as well, so it's always a good idea to have some cash in both currencies. You can easily exchange your money at banks or ATMs throughout the city. Just be aware that the exchange rate may vary, so it's best to check before making a transaction. Also, don't forget to tip - it's customary in Jamaica and greatly appreciated by service industry workers. So make sure you have some small bills on hand for tipping at restaurants, bars, and hotels.
What is the best time to visit Kingston?
The climate stays pleasant all year round. It might rain a bit more during hurricane season from June to September, but you still won't get bored on rainy days!
Kingston is home to many festival and events, so if you want to check them out, plan your dates accordingly.
Is Portland safe for travelers?
As a female traveler, I felt safe. Portland is very quiet at night and there is not so much going on. Downtown Port Antonio gets somewhat sketchy in the late hours.
Is there an ATM in Portland?
In Portland, getting Jamaican dollars from ATMs or exchanges is not always possible, especially in the villages. Get money in Port Antonio.
Public Transport in Portland, Jamaica
Route Taxis go around the Port Antonio area and even down to Fairy Hill and Boston Bay. The further South you go, the fewer Route Taxis on the roads.
Public Bus: The bus stop is downtown Port Antonio and Anotto Bay. I couldn't find a schedule. They seem to go more frequently than the Knutsford.
Be aware that the time stated refers to calculated driving time, not the actual time to reach a destination. Adding to the driving time are stops and bus switches which are not apparent when buying the ticket. Due to Covid, there are fewer buses than usual, and it is better to buy the ticket online.
Can I drink tap water in Jamaica?
Even though Jamaica is considered a third-world country, it provides the best water quality in the region. You are, therefore, safe to drink tap water. This is especially true in the cities. However, if it makes you feel uneasy, bring a water purifier.
What's the biggest challenge for the conscious traveler?
Tourism leakage: Jamaica is a tropical paradise that's adored by tourists worldwide, but it has a problem that's hidden from sight - tourism leakage. This phenomenon refers to the loss of revenue that occurs when international hotel chains capture a large chunk of tourist dollars, leaving very little money behind to benefit the local economy. If you're among the millions of visitors who flock to Jamaica every year, there's a simple way to help mitigate the effects of tourism leakage: support Jamaican-owned hotels, shops, and restaurants. By doing so, you can put your money where your heart is - and give the people of Jamaica a chance to thrive. So don't be shy about seeking out local businesses on your next vacation. Your decision to keep tourism dollars within Jamaica could make a world of difference.
Beach access
While Jamaica is known for its beautiful beaches, there have been some issues with access to these public spaces. In recent years, many resorts and private properties have restricted access to certain parts of the beach, making it incredibly difficult for locals to maintain their life and right to the sea. Support public beaches and say no to all-inclusive tourism!
Trash
Make sure to bring a foldable food container and cutlery with you! The amount of waste caused by food sold on the street is incredible.
Sunscreen
Make sure to protect Jamaica's marine life and bring reef-friendly sunscreen!
Packing List Jamaica
As you see, there are plenty of things to experience in Jamaica. To come fully prepared, check out my packing list for Jamaica, which includes everything from eco-friendly toiletries to sustainable fashion and even the coolest travel gadgets!
Traveling Jamaica?
Jamaica ItineraryPlaces to visit in the Caribbean
Things to do in Kingstown, St. Vincent and the Grenadines
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Craving sun-kissed days? My guide to the best beaches in Portland, Jamaica reveals Winnifred’s laid-back charm, Frenchman’s Cove’s dreamy lagoon & other local gems—straight from my own sandy-footed adventures.
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When the hustle and bustle of Kingston becomes too much, escaping for a day-trip to one of the island’s nearby gems is the perfect remedy. Here are my favorite day trips from Kingston