Backpacking the Galapagos Islands
Duration: at least one week
Budget: $125 per day
A visit to the Galapagos Islands with its unique inhabitants has long been on our bucket list. The volcanic archipelago is known for its unique wildlife, including sea lions, lizards, and giant tortoises. The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands in the Pacific Ocean, about 1000 kilometers from the Ecuadorian mainland. The islands are renowned for their unique and diverse wildlife, which was studied by Charles Darwin during his famous voyage on the Beagle.
Imagine a place where sea lions and lizards are just hanging out in the village like it’s the most normal thing to do. That’s the Galapagos Islands for you! We were blown away after our first minutes.
Shortly after purchasing our flights, we were getting a little worried: the Galapagos islands are supposedly one of the most expensive destinations in South America! There was no way we would be able to afford a Galapagos cruise, so we decided to backpack the islands. Although most of the islands are uninhabited and can only be visited by cruise ship, there are three populated islands (San Cristobal, Santa Cruz, and Isabela) where you can backpack and explore on your own. This article will share tips on traveling the Galapagos Islands without a cruise.
How to travel the Galapagos indpendantly
San Christobal – the islands of sea lionsa
Santa Cruz – turtles and touristic hub
San Cristobal- the island of the sea lions
San Christobal mesmerized us within the first minutes of discovering the town. The closer you get to the Malecon, the more sea lions you’ll see! It’s incredible how they seamlessly integrate into the city. You won’t see stray dogs; instead, you’ll spot sea lions casually hanging out on benches, in front of houses, or even in bathrooms. We couldn’t believe our eyes!
San Cristobal offers plenty of things to do, and we could have spent much more time there! Despite the cheaper things to discover on your own, plenty of tour operators offer 360-degree tours, dive excursions, and day trips to nearby islands.
Best places to stay in San Cristobal
San Cristobal | La Galapaguera Tortoise Habitat
It was our first time to see giant turtles and one of the main reasons to visit the Galapagos islands! The hundreds of year-old tortoises are free to roam around the area as they please, so you must keep your eyes open. We were lucky to arrive late (as always) around lunchtime, and it seemed like the tortoises were having lunch, too! We were lucky and saw about 20 giant tortoises as they all came together to one feeding spot! It’s incredible to imagine how old they are, how many things they’ve seen, and how they go on with their lives. We would have loved to interview one of those giants about their life perspectives! The center is also a breeding center, so we also got to see babies and mid-agers (younger than 100 years).
San Cristobal | Playa Puerto Chino
This picturesque beach, located about 30 km from the main settlement, is the perfect spot to relax after visiting the turtle conversation center. However, it’s not easy to get there. You can either go there by bike (it’s challenging), on tour or rent a taxi. Sadly, we couldn’t find any buses. So we took the most accessible and cheapest option. Our taxi driver dropped us off at the turtle conversation center, and we agreed he’d pick us up at Playa Puerto Chino in the late afternoon.
You’ll reach the secluded beach after a walk of about 10 minutes. The bay is home to sea lions, and we had the beach entirely to ourselves when we went. It was terrific to observe sea lions in their natural environment.
Helpful tip: There are no restaurants or any other facilities. So bring your food and drinks if you are without a tour. We ended up quite hungry. Also, bring bug spray because there are some horseflies around. They’ll only bother you on the way to or from the beach.
San Cristobal |Playa Mann
Our favorite beach on Cristobal! Why? We loved hanging out amongst the many sea lions who made this stretch of beach their home. Also, it’s the only beach we could find offering tasty, affordable, authentic food! It was the first beach we had discovered, and we loved watching the sunset from there. It’s a spot also visited by locals, especially during sunset hours. It was lovely to hang out and make new friends.
Santa Cruz | Turtles and touristic hub
Since we only figured out that it was easy to hop between the islands, our trip to Santa Cruz was spontaneous and unplanned. We were going to skip Santa Cruz for Isabella when a tour operator offered us a 360-degree tour for as little as 30$ each. He told us he had only two Bolivians on that tour and wanted to fill it up. So even though we got to spend very little time on the island, we got a good overview of what it had to offer.
Santa Cruz is, without a doubt, the touristic center of the Islands. The island is conveniently located right between Isla Isabella and San Cristobal. On the one hand, the tour gave us a good overview, but to be honest, we didn’t like running from one site to the other.
Best places to stay in Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz |El Chato tortoise center
Our favorite thing to do in Santa Cruz was by far the visit to the El Chato, the giant tortoise center! We didn’t spot as many as in San Cristobal, but we could see them from an even shorter distance, and they are even bigger!
Santa Cruz |Las Grietas
On our tour, we also visited Las Grietas, a water tunnel that offers excellent snorkeling. You must hire a water taxi or walk about 20 minutes from the main pier to get there. It gets pretty crowded, though, with many people jumping and taking pictures. The walk there through unique fauna was more our thing.
Santa Cruz |Tortuga Bay
Tortuga Bay is one of our favorite places in the Galapagos. It’s a beautiful, secluded beach perfect for a relaxing day. It is split into two parts: the angry (brava) beach and the calm (mansa) beach.
How to get to Tortuga Bay
The Tortuga Bay trailhead is located at the end of Charles Binford Avenue, a few blocks behind the main tourist dock area close to Las Ninfas and hotel Fiesta. Just follow the path for about a mile and a half (30-45 minutes from the trailhead) to arrive. The trail is paved, flat, and easy, leading through an old lava field colonized by Palo Santo trees and Opuntia cacti. It is a pleasant walk, accompanied by Darwin’s Finches and Galapagos Mockingbirds flitting between the trees and the melodic tunes of Yellow Warblers. Don’t forget to look to the ground, where red-throated lava lizards scurry around the dry brush habitat. When you arrive at Tortuga Bay, you’ll be greeted by white sand beaches and turquoise waters. It’s truly a paradise!
Santa Cruz|Playa Brava
Strong currents & great surf
As you reach the end of the trail arriving at Tortuga Bay, your first sight of white sand will be Playa Brava. The water currents here are powerful and most suitable for surfing. However, this is a strictly no-swimming zone as it can be dangerous.
Santa Cruz | Playa Mansa
Calm waters & wildlife
Save your swimming for Mansa Beach, where the water is crystal clear and much calmer. Tortuga Bay is teeming with marine life, such as iguanas, crabs, turtles, and many different types of birds. It truly is a nature lover’s paradise!
Isla Isabella - lizards and surfing
Isla Isabella is the least populated and least developed of the three islands we visited. As soon as we got off the boat, lizards greeted us. Casually hanging out, they weren’t bothered by passengers getting off the ship and walking past them. They look like miniature dinosaurs.
The island consists of one main settlement comprising charming one-story houses. You can find several restaurants and bars along the beach. Isla Isabella felt authentic. It’s one of those places where tourists and locals easily meet and get to know each other. The island is unpretentious and offers plenty of things to do.
Best places to stay on Isla Isabela
Surfing on Isla Isabella
A local friend told us that there is excellent surfing on the island. It’s one of the things tourists and locals love to do on the island. So we rented a surfboard for a day and had a fantastic time. The waves were great, and the water was crystal clear. We even saw some turtles while we were surfing!
Isla Isabela|Hike Sierra Negra and Volcán Chico
Hiking Sierra Negra is one of the best ways to experience the diverse landscapes of the Galapagos Islands. Although you could be forgiven for assuming that Volcán Chico is a volcano in its own right, it is just part of Sierra Negra and is considered to be a parasitic cone. In simple terms, this means it is another way for lava to exit the central volcano. Hiking Volcán Chico and Sierra Negra allow you to see two very different sides of the same coin. While Sierra Negra is primarily bald with very little vegetation, Volcán Chico is covered in lush greenery. The only way to access Volcán Chico and Sierra Negra is via guided tour. Tourists are not allowed to visit the area without a guide, and the Galapagos authorities are very strict about this.
The hike is open all year round, assuming the volcano is not in a period of high activity. During these times, Sierra Negra tours will be postponed until the danger passes. This can take weeks or even months. Hiking Sierra Negra is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see one of the most unique ecosystems on Earth.
Hiking the volcano takes around 5-6 hours from start to finish. Even though the trail’s incline is gradual, the hike can be strenuous for some due to the distance and heat of the equatorial sun. But trust us, the views are worth it! Once you reach the crater’s edge, you’ll be rewarded with an incredible panorama of Isabela Island and a sense of the scale of the eruption that created Sierra Negra. On a clear day, you can even see nearby Fernandina Island.
During periods of high activity, tours will be postponed until it’s safe to visit again.
Isla Isabela|Snorkeling Las Tuneles
Snorkeling Las Tuneles was by far one of our most unforgettable snorkeling trips ever! The boat ride itself already promised adventure. However, since the sea was rough this day, our captain had to undergo some quite thrilling maneuvers till we entered the area of las Tuneles. The collapsed lava tunnels are home to white-tipped sharks, turtles, giant pirate fish, and many other sea creatures. We even saw some seahorses in the wild! It was utterly unique! However, keep in mind that the Pacific is sometimes cold and rough. Also though we were wearing neoprene suits, we were still freezing. On our way back, we saw penguins, manta rays, and dolphins as they accompanied our boat. It was incredible! To top it all off, we even saw giant turtles in a romantic mood.
Popular tours on the Galapagos islands
Practical travel tips for your round trip to Ecuador
What language is spoken in Ecuador?
Spanish!
What is the best time to travel to Ecuador?
The best time to travel to Ecuador depends on individual preferences and the activities planned.
In general, however, it can be said that the dry season from June to September is a good time to travel to Ecuador. There is less rain during this time, which makes hiking in the Andes and exploring the Amazon easier.
The months of December to January are also popular, as the weather is warm and pleasant, but there is more rain in the coastal and Amazon regions.
For those wishing to visit the Galápagos Islands, the months of June to November are ideal, as the sea is calmer and the wildlife viewing is optimal. However, it is important to note that the weather in Ecuador can vary greatly depending on the region, so it is advisable to find out in advance about the specific climatic conditions for the desired destinations.
Is Ecuador safe?
Ecuador has long been considered a safe country to travel to. The situation has currently deteriorated considerably. Carefree travel will be very difficult in 2024.
What is the currency in Ecuador?
The official currency in Ecuador is the US dollar (USD).
Public transportation in Ecuador
Public transportation is not only cheap, but also a very convenient way to get around Ecuador. You should try it out!
Public buses: The bus stop for buses that go practically everywhere from every major city. I couldn't find a schedule. They seem to travel more frequently than the Knutsford.
Knutsford: The luxury bus from Jamaica connects other important destinations. Please note that the specified time refers to the calculated travel time and
not
the actual time it takes to achieve a goal. In addition to the journey time, there are also stops and bus changes that are not visible when you buy your ticket. There are fewer buses than usual because of Covid, and it is better to use the Ticket online.
Internet and sim cards in Ecuador
Getting a local sim card in Ecuador is really easy and definitely worth it if you're planning to stay in the country for more than a week or two.
I normally use Claro, one of the biggest suppliers here. Just have a copy of your passport ready when you buy your SIM card.
The tariffs are quite favorable.
Can I drink the tap water in Ecuador?
In Quito you can safely drink the tap water. Even if it is not of the best quality and can be contaminated by the old pipes. The water is also treated with chlorine. A water filter is highly recommended in rural areas.
What should I look out for on my trip?
Trash can: As everywhere in South America, street food causes a lot of waste. Bring your foldable food container and cutlery. Don't forget your water filter.
Sunscreen: Protect Ecuador's marine life by using reef-friendly sunscreen.
Packing list Ecuador
Wondering what to pack? Check out our packing list to prepare for everything Ecuador has to offer. Here you’ll find everything from clothing to travel gadgets and eco-friendly toiletries!
Traveling Ecuador?
Ecuador ItineraryPlaces to visit in Ecuador
Dive into a land of contrasts!
Capurgana Colombia’s last corner
Capurgana turned out to be much bigger and livelier than I had anticipated. Stretched along the sea, Capugrana leads the way back to the entrance of the Darien Jungle.
Amazonas | Land between waters
Ecuador’s rainforests are some of the most biodiverse in the world, and a visit there is unlike any other wildlife experience. Whereas in Africa you might travel by jeep to see animals in the savannah, or by boat to go whale watching, in Ecuador you have to travel on foot or by small boat.
Ecuador’s most beautiful beaches
Many travelers decide to skip the Pacific coast (as Dani did). However, Ecuador’s coast offers excellent surfing, deserted beaches, and charming villages. Ecuador’s coast is a truly underrated gem that you should not miss.
Quito | the world’s highest capital
Quito, the highest capital in the world bursts with diversity. The 65km long Andean capital is a Potpourri of emotions: ethnic diversity, fascinating nature, creative people, architectural masterpieces and stunning views.
Ecuador Packing list
Packing for our travel to Ecuador in December turned out to be quite a challenge. For once we were planning on spending lots of time on the Galapagos islands, and secondly, we were planning on visiting the mainland and Quito, which lies high up in the Andes. With so many climates to cover the onion-style is vital!
Daytrips from Quito │ Explore Ecuador
When most people think of Ecuador, they automatically imagine the Galapagos Islands. However, this small country has much more to offer than just its world-famous archipelago. Quito, the capital of Ecuador, is located in the middle of the Andes and is an excellent starting point for exploring all three regions of the country.
