My Quick, Wallet-Friendly Island-Hopping Adventure
When I first touched down in Kingstown, I was buzzing with excitement and a dash of nerves—my plan: explore the Grenadines without splurging on a yacht. Spoiler alert: hopping from island to island on local ferries ended up being one of my favorite travel hacks. Not only did I save hundreds of dollars, but I also met cool people along the way. Below, you’ll find exactly how I wove together ferry schedules, island highlights, and a day-by-day itinerary that you can adapt—hopefully helping you feel as much at home in this corner of the world as I did.
I still can’t believe how easy (and affordable) island hopping here is—I jumped from Bequia to Union Island in under an hour for just a handful of EC dollars. Each quick boat ride felt like flipping through a photo album of the Caribbean: one minute I was laughing with fishermen in Port Elizabeth, the next I was sipping coconut water under Mustique’s swaying palms. In a region known for steep prices, Saint Vincent surprised me with big island vibes and wallet-friendly crossings that let me taste local flavors and chase hidden bays—all before lunchtime.
Day 1: Kingstown → Bequia
After some breakfast roti, take for Bequia Express for the 8:00 am departure. By 8:50 am, we slipped into Port Elizabeth Harbor, and I already felt the island’s laid-back heartbeat.
Morning in Port Elizabeth
I dropped my bag at The Liming Bequia (Friendship, US $350 per night for a double) and dashed to a shaded fish-cake stall on Lower Bay (XCD 5, US $1.85). Freshly fried, steaming hot, with a kick of pepper sauce—this little breakfast on the go became a Grenadines ritual all week.
A quick wander took me to the Bequia Heritage Museum (Tues–Sat, 9 am–3 pm; donation XCD 10/US $3.70). Inside a restored 1800s wooden building, models of traditional sloops, Garifuna artifacts, and faded photographs of Easter Regattas from the 1950s told the island’s story—absolutely priceless glimpses into local life.
Afternoon Snorkel at Princess Margaret Beach
By 1:00 pm, I had hopped into an openair taxi and headed to Princess Margaret Beach. The lagoon’s water was so incredibly clear. Rental snorkel gear cost XCD 20 (US $7.40), and I spent hours swimming alongside bright angel and sergeant major fish.
Sunset, Rum and dinner
Where to stay
Day 2: Bequia → Mustique → Canouan (Sunrise to Sunset)
I set my alarm for 6:30 am to hike Mount Peggy—the island’s 118 m summit. By 7:15 am, I was at the top, sipping instant coffee from a Thermos and watching Union and Canouan float in the morning mist. My legs were jelly, but those 360° Grenadine views were worth every step.
Morning Ferry Shuffle
Back down by 9:00 am, I grabbed a quick roti at Tia’s Roti Hut (XCD 10) and taxis to Paget Farm (XCD 10/US $3.70)—that tiny hilltop road where the Mustique Ferry departs at 9:30 am (Mon/Wed/Fri). By 11:30 am, I was stepping onto Mustique’s pink granitic shoreline.
Lunch & Lounging in Mustique
At Macaroni Beach, I found calm surf on the Atlantic side and rented a paddleboard for XCD 50 (US $18.50). It was an adventure balancing seeing coral heads deep below me, and if you are lucky you can even spot a pod of dolphins cutting through deeper water off the reef. Midday hunger struck, so I wandered to Basil’s Bar, that legendary open-air hangout where swings hang over the sand and reggae floats in the breeze.
Afternoon Return to Bequia & Onward to Canouan
The ferry back to Bequia left Mustique around 2:00 pm, landing at Paget Farm by 4:00 pm. I hustled a taxi back to Port Elizabeth (~4:30 pm arrival) and then caught the 6:00 pm Jaden Sun Fast Ferry to Canouan (arrived 7:05 pm).
By 7:30 pm, I checked into Bayciew Apartments (Canouan, XCD 240/US $90 per night). The gentle breeze off Saline Bay made me forget I’d been on four ferries that day—travel by island-hopping is strangely invigorating.
Where to stay
Day 3: Canouan Unwind & Explore
Canouan’s beaches feel like private terraces. I spent my morning at Saline Bay Beach, where coral gardens begin just meters from the shore. Snorkel gear rental was XCD 25 (US $9.25) for the morning, and I wound up swimming alongside a turtle munching on seagrass.
Midday Stroll & Lunch
Around noon, I wandered over to the Canouan Estate Resort gardens (day pass XCD 20/US $7.40). Even if you’re not staying there, the orchid-filled pathways and manicured lawns make you feel like you’ve stepped into a secret garden. A quick seafood platter at the Beach Club Restaurant (XCD 65/US $24) was a luxurious midday treat—grilled lobster tail and coconut-lime rice with a view of shimmering turquoise waters.
Afternoon Reef Adventure
At 3:00 pm, I hopped on a boat to Sherman’s Cay Reef (half-day tour XCD 80/US $30). Floating along the coral walls—where parrotfish, barracuda, and nurse sharks lurked—felt like swimming through a living aquarium.
Sunset & Dinner
Back ashore, I watched the late afternoon light fade at Pink Sands Club (day-pass splurge: coconut-milk piña colada for US $25). As the sun dipped below the horizon, the sky shifted from gold to lavender. For dinner, I found a small open-air stall near the dock serving goat curry roti (XCD 40/US $15), and the gentle hum of cicadas kept me company as I devoured every bite.
Day 4: Canouan → Mayreau → Union Island (Day Visit Only)
Morning on Canouan
I woke up at 7:00 am in Canouan, letting the gentle sea breeze spill through my window at Treasure Isle Hotel. After a quick coffee, I strolled down to Saline Bay Beach—the morning light made the turquoise water look almost unreal. I rented snorkel gear for XCD 25 (US $9.25) and drifted over coral gardens, spotting parrotfish darting in and out of crevices. By 9:30 am, I was back at the dock, loading my backpack onto the Jaden Sun Fast Ferry.
11:55 am: The Jaden Sun eased out of Canouan Harbor, cutting a wake toward Mayreau. In under twenty minutes, we pulled into Salt Whistle Bay—that perfect horseshoe of sugar-white sand and calm, deep-blue lagoon.
I rented a paddleboard (XCD 40/US $15) and spent thirty magic minutes drifting above seagrass flats, where stingrays glided silently beneath.
At Peter’s Bar, lunch was a lobster sandwich (XCD 50/US $18.50) overflowing with sweet meat in garlic butter. I ate it barefoot on the sand, feeling the sun warm my shoulders.
12:20 pm: Back on the Jaden Sun, we buzzed across the channel to Union Island. Although Beryl had flattened much of Clifton Village, the harbor was still lined with battered fishing boats, and locals waved from what remained of the waterfront shacks.
I spent the next hour wandering the handful of open cafés—one lady, Mira, handed me a cold coconut water and insisted I thank her niece for survival supplies. In between, a small group of fishermen shared stories of rebuilding, their smiles as bright as the island’s tattered flags.
2:00 pm – Exploring Union’s Coast
Since there was no safe lodging, I skipped any uphill hikes (Mount Taboi is still off-limits) and instead took a water taxi (XCD 10/US $3.70) down to Palm Beach. Despite broken boardwalks and scattered debris, the beach itself was remarkably intact—soft sand, gentle waves, and a handful of families picking through driftwood.
A quick swim refreshed me, and two local kids offered me a sweet mango slice in thanks for sharing my granola bar. Their resilient laughter made me believe Union’s spirit will outlast every fallen coconut tree.
3:30 pm: Union Island → Kingstown
I caught the MV Gem Star II back to Kingstown (Union 3:30 pm → Kingstown ~ 5:30 pm; XCD 80/US $30). As the hull cut through the water, I watched Union’s silhouette shrink behind me—half-shrouded in smoke from rebuilding fires, half framed by palm trees still standing. Even ravaged, the island felt alive.
Evening in Kingstown
By 6:30 pm, I was back on solid ground in Kingstown. I found a breezy spot at a waterfront bar in Vila, ordered grilled mahi-mahi with callaloo (XCD 55/US $20), and sipped a rum punch. Church bells tolled in the distance, and I toasted Union’s quiet courage, knowing the island will rise again.
Day 5: Young Island Day Trip → Kingstown Farewell
I dedicated my last day to a really (!!) quick—and deeply restorative—visit to Young Island before wrapping up in Kingstown.
7:30 am: Kingstown → Young Island
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A small skiff from Kingstown’s waterfront (XCD 25/US $9) dropped me on Young Island in under ten minutes.
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Stepping onto that tiny private cay felt like entering a postcard: a single crescent of powdery sand, fringed by swaying palm trees, with the hull of St. Vincent’s mountains rising behind.
8:00 am – Beach & Snorkel on Young Island
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I settled under a thatched palapa and watched the morning sun turn the sea from slate gray to every shade of turquoise.
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A quick 15-minute snorkel off the western side revealed a living reef: schools of neon parrotfish, a couple of shy angelfish, and an old hawksbill turtle that looked me straight in the eye before paddling away.
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By 9:30 am, I was back under my umbrella, nibbling on fresh coconut chunks from the bar (XCD 15/US $5.55) and sipping ice-cold sorrel juice.
2:30 am: Young Island → Kingstown
3:00 pm: Kingstown→Home
The islands—their people, their laughter, even their scars—had woven themselves into my travel story, and I knew I’d be back to see Union Island’s rebirth.
Where to stay
Check in for 1 night in Kingstown/Vila at:
$$ Paradise Beach Hotel
Practical travel tips for St. Vincent
Currency & Payments
Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD). Fixed exchange rate at XCD $2.70 = US $1.
ATMs & Credit Cards: One ScotiaBank ATM is located next to the ferry jetty in Port Elizabeth. Many shops, restaurants, and guesthouses accept Visa and Mastercard, but always carry small XCD notes for ferries, taxis, and beachside vendors who may not take cards.
Using USD: Common but not ideal—vendors often offer a poorer exchange (≈XCD $2.60 per US $1). When paying in USD, request change in XCD if possible.
What is the best time to visit Bequia?
High Season (December–April)
Weather: Dry, sunny days with average highs around 29–31 °C (84–88 °F) and cool, breezy trade winds.
Why Go: Perfect for beach days, snorkeling, and sailing without interruption. Whale watching (humpback whales pass through Grenadine waters) is often at its peak in January–March.
Crowds & Costs: Accommodation fills quickly during Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter week (especially because of the Easter Regatta). Book at least 3–4 months in advance if you plan to arrive in March or April.
Shoulder Season (May & November)
Weather: Mostly sunny, with occasional brief showers. Trade winds remain consistent, keeping humidity comfortable.
Why Go: Fewer tourists, lower rates on guesthouses, and still excellent conditions for swimming, hiking, and exploring.
Caution: Firefly season (May–June) brings short evening rain showers, but they rarely disrupt daytime plans.
Off-Peak (June–October)
Weather: Afternoon showers are more common, especially from August–September.
Why Go: You’ll find rock-bottom rates on accommodations, and beaches are virtually empty.
Caution: Hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30. Keep an eye on regional forecasts if traveling between August and October. Most charter boat captains and tour operators will issue timely updates if any system approaches.
Safety & Health
General Safety: Bequia is very safe. Crime is extremely low.
Mosquito & Insect Precautions: Dengue and chikungunya are present year-round. Use insect repellent with DEET, wear long sleeves/pants at dusk and dawn, and ask your guesthouse if they schedule fogging treatments.
Medical Services: A small health clinic near Lower Bay offers basic care; serious emergencies require air evacuation to Kingstown or St. Lucia. Purchase travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
How to get to Bequia
By sea
Ferry from Kingstown (St. Vincent)
Departs: Kingstown Ferry Terminal (downtown).
Duration: Approximately 1 hour (usually 3 round-trips daily in high season; fewer in low season).
Cost: Around XCD $36 (≈US $13) one way.
Tip: Arrive at least 30 minutes before departure. If you’re traveling with luggage, expect ferry staff to stack bags on the cabin floor.
Private Yacht
Bequia’s Admiralty Bay is a popular anchorage for cruising yachts in the Eastern Caribbean. If you’re sailing yourself or chartering, note that customs and immigration are handled at Bequia’s customs house (a short dinghy ride to shore), so plan to clear in before arriving at a mooring ball.
Inter-Island Day Boats
Comfortable and on a budget, small “open boats” depart from Ashton (northern St. Vincent) and drop passengers in Friendship Bay. These boats run at the captain’s discretion, usually in the early morning, and cost around XCD $25–$30 (≈US $9–$11). Expect a bumpy ride if the sea is choppy—good for thrill-seekers, not faint-hearted.
By Air
Charter Flights / Seaplanes
Several operators (e.g., SVG Air, Mustique Airways) offer 15–20 minute flights from Argyle International Airport (SVD) to Bequia. These are pricier (≈US $150–$200 one way) but perfect if you’re short on time. Flights land on Bequia’s grass airstrip next to Lower Bay.
How to get around Bequia
Walking
Port Elizabeth and Friendship Bay are entirely walkable. The main road that loops around the island is just 7 miles (≈11 km), so if you’re feeling energetic, you can hike between beaches. Bring sturdy sandals or walking shoes—while many lanes are flat, occasional rock gardens and steep hills can be challenging in flip-flops.
Taxis
Bright yellow vans with “TAXI” emblazoned in black dots are the primary form of public transport. No meters—fares are fixed regionally (e.g., Port Elizabeth → Princess Margaret Beach = XCD $5 ≈US $1.85 per person). Always confirm the fare before climbing in. Vans wait at the bay’s grassy knoll behind the jetty; if you wave one down on the road, be prepared to share with up to five other passengers.
Car/Jeep Rental
A handful of local operators rent SUVs and small cars by the day (≈US $80–$100 for a small jeep). Roads are narrow and often unpaved, so 4×4 vehicles are recommended if you plan to explore beyond Port Elizabeth. Rental agencies will usually drop off and pick up from your guesthouse.
Scooters & Mopeds
Available for rent at a few shops in Port Elizabeth (≈US $40–$50/day plus a small deposit). Helmets are provided; local roads can be winding, so ride cautiously. Mopeds are ideal for solo travelers or couples looking to zip between beaches.
Internet & Connectivity
Local SIM Cards: Flow and Digicel both offer prepaid SIMs with data packages (2 GB ≈XCD $35). Purchase at the Port Elizabeth Craft Market or ask your guesthouse host to pick one up. Coverage on Bequia is decent, though speeds may drop at night.
Wi-Fi: Many guesthouses and cafés (e.g., Jacquot’s Café on Port Elizabeth Beach) offer complimentary Wi-Fi. Speeds are generally adequate for messaging and light browsing but may falter during peak evening hours.
What's the biggest challenge for the conscious traveler?
Plastic Reduction: Bequia’s waters are pristine—help keep them that way by refusing single-use plastics. Bring a refillable bottle, and carry refillable toiletry containers. Some cafés and bars provide free water refills.
Support Local Businesses: Purchase crafts directly from artisans at the Bequia Craft Market; eat at small family-run restaurants like Duffy’s Love Shack and Jacquot’s Café. Hire local guides for hikes and boat tours.
Respect Local Customs: Always ask before photographing people, especially in rural areas or during church services. When visiting religious sites, dress modestly (shoulders covered, no shorts or mini-skirts).
Packing List Caribbean
As you see, there are plenty of things to experience in the Dominican Republic. To come fully prepared, check out my packing list for Jamaica, which includes everything from eco-friendly toiletries to sustainable fashion and even the coolest travel gadgets!
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