Unplug and Unwind on Tiny, Timeless Bequia
Duration: at least 5 days
Where to stay: The Liming Bequia
Best time to travel: Dry Season: October-June; Festival Season: June to August
Budget: $125 per day
Bequia, the second-largest island in St. Vincent & the Grenadines, greeted me with an effortless calm the instant I stepped off the ferry. Where neighboring St. Vincent buzzes, Bequia simply breathes: pastel cottages tumble down palm-dotted slopes, wooden skiffs sway in glass-clear bays, and the island’s heartbeat rises and falls with the tide.
You won’t find high-rise resorts or neon strip malls here. Instead, barefoot guesthouses, family kitchens plating whatever the fishermen hauled in at dawn, and mile upon mile of untouched shoreline invite slow, serendipitous wandering.
That easygoing spirit is anchored in a deep maritime heritage. Nearly every household is tied—by rope or by blood—to fishing, boat-building, or blue-water voyaging. At first light, color-splashed skiffs glide back into Port Elizabeth, holds shimmering with mahi-mahi and snapper. Children chalk cricket wickets into sandy alleyways, and on Sundays hymns drift from hillside chapels, carried seaward on the trade-wind breeze.
Locals are exceptionally friendly, often greeting newcomers with warm hellos and invitations to join impromptu beach barbecues. English is the official language, but you’ll also hear Bequia Creole peppered with phrases like “Wha’kip” (What’s up?) or “Ire” (Are you okay?), which instantly dissolve any sense of “outsider” and make you feel part of the community.
A few cultural touchstones to keep in mind:
Seafaring Heritage: Boatbuilding yards dot the eastern shore, and you may spot craftsmen shaping canoes and sloops from mahogany. The annual Bequia Easter Regatta (see “Festivals & Special Events” below) celebrates that heritage in full color.
Hospitality: In Bequia, doors often remain unlocked, and it’s common to be offered a cold drink or a snack if you strike up a conversation with a local. Politeness matters—always begin with a friendly “Good morning!” or “Good afternoon!”
Things to do in Bequia
Explore Port Elizabeth & Waterfront
Water activites
Scuba Diving & Snorkel
Festivals and Parties
Shop
Visit Model Boat Factory
Good to know: Practical travel tips
Key Areas & Villages
Port Elizabeth (Lower Bay)
The island’s unofficial capital and main harbor, Port Elizabeth is where ferries from St. Vincent dock each day. Colorful wooden shops, small cafés, and open-air rum shops line the waterfront. Here you’ll find the post office, the island’s only bank, and a handful of art galleries showcasing local painters and sculptors. Lower Bay, just below the main jetty, boasts a long stretch of calm water perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
Friendship Bay
A short 10-minute walk north of Port Elizabeth, Friendship Bay offers a quintessential postcard beach: sugar-white sand, gentle waves, and swaying coconut palms. A handful of beachfront bars and cafés dot the shoreline, making it an ideal spot to sip a cold Sorrel Punch (hibiscus drink blended with spices) while watching local fishermen pull in their daily catch.
Princess Margaret Beach & Lagoon
Tucked around the northern tip of Bequia, this horseshoe-shaped enclave is renowned for its dramatic turquoise lagoon, ringed by volcanic rock. Calm, shallow waters make it perfect for snorkeling—keep an eye out for angelfish, parrotfish, and the occasional nurse shark. There’s a small café on the east side serving fresh seafood platters, and you’ll often find a handful of kiteboarders carving across the lagoon when winds pick up in winter.
Paget Farm (Upper Bay/Dasheen Key Area)
Ascend the hill behind Lower Bay to reach Paget Farm—an area of gently rolling hills, small farms, and panoramic views over the Grenadines. Dasheen Key, just offshore, is where pelicans roost at sunrise. Pack a picnic and settle on a grassy knoll above Upper Bay to savor one of Bequia’s finest viewpoints.
La Pompe & Belmont
On Bequia’s southern side, La Pompe’s shoreline is dotted with fishing businesses, small poultry farms, and the island’s old airport runway (now unused). Nearby Belmont Estate (a short taxi ride inland) offers guided nature tours, honey-making experiences, and the chance to sample Belmont rum (see “Cultural Experiences” below).
Port Elizabeth & the Waterfront
Historic Juggler’s Wall & Plaza
Once the site where fish were gut and processed for export, this granite wall now hosts a small plaza where locals gather to trade gossip, sell fishing gear, or repair nets. Early morning, watch fishermen haul in their catch—snapper, wahoo, and flying fish are staples.
Insider Tip: Around 6 a.m., vendors set up makeshift tables selling “fish cakes” and “saltfish buljol” (shredded saltfish salad). Grab one with a hot goat pepper sauce for an authentic Bequia breakfast.
Practical Tips
Getting There
On Foot: A steep 20–30 minute walk from central Bay Street. The path is partially paved but can be slippery after rain.
By Taxi: Expect to pay around XCD $12–$15 (US$4.50–$5.60) one way.
Hours & Admission
Open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Admission: XCD $10 (US$3.70) for adults; XCD $5 for children under 12.
What to Bring
- Water (at least 1 L per person), sunscreen, hat, and comfortable walking shoes.
- A lightweight jacket or shawl can be handy for early-morning visits, as the hilltop breeze can be cool.
Bequia Heritage Museum
Housed in a restored 19th-century wooden building near the waterfront, the museum chronicles Bequia’s maritime past, local pottery traditions, and whale hunting heritage.
Bequia and whaling
Bequia’s whaling tradition began in 1875 when William “Old Bill” Wallace brought three Yankee whaleboats to the island and taught locals shore-based hunting—skills that helped communities survive after plantation projects collapsed. Over generations, families learned to read the sea, track humpback whales, and conduct hunts with respect for the animals. In 1987, the International Whaling Commission granted Bequia a subsistence quota of three whales per year, later raised to four in 2002. Hunts run January through April: lookouts on Bequia and Mustique spot migrating pods, and at dawn, crews launch in double-ended whaleboats, using hand-thrown harpoons. Before setting out, hunters sing the “whale song” and offer blessings; after a successful catch, villagers share prayers and a feast, ensuring nothing goes to waste. This age-old practice remains a careful balance between cultural survival and modern conservation.
What to See:
- Models of traditional sloops and schooners.
- Exhibits on the island’s boatbuilding techniques.
- Photo archives documenting the Bequia Easter Regatta back to the 1950s.
Practical Tips:
Open Tuesday–Saturday, 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Suggested donation: XCD $10 (≈US $3.70).
You can visit even outside of the opening hours, here is a beautful terrace with a stunning view and some exhibits which are always available.
Soak up some sun
Princess Margaret Beach & Lagoon
Why Go: This crescent-shaped beach is often ranked among the most beautiful in the Eastern Caribbean. The protected lagoon’s calm, clear waters (waist to chest deep) are perfect for snorkeling—don’t miss the patch reefs just outside the lagoon, alive with parrotfish, sergeant majors, and trumpetfish.
Getting There: Taxi from Port Elizabeth costs XCD $8 (≈US $3) one way; or rent a moped and follow the coastal road north.
What to Bring: Snorkel gear (rental shops near the beach), reef-safe sunscreen, water, snacks. A few picnic tables under thatched umbrellas offer shade.
Best Time: Early morning (8 a.m.–10 a.m.) to avoid crowds and catch the lagoon at its calmest.
Friendship Bay
Why Go: Ideal for a lazy beach day—shallow paddle-in water, gentle surf, and coconut palms to shade you as you lounge on the powdery sand. Several beachfront shacks serve cold drinks and local specialties (e.g., “Conch Souse,” a spicy conch soup served with breadfruit).
Activities:
- Kayaking: Rent a single or double kayak from Friendship Bay Water Sports. Paddling out to Dasheen Key (≈15 minutes) offers a chance to spot frigatebirds and pelicans perched on volcanic rocks.
- Stand-Up Paddleboarding: Mornings are best, when the water resembles a mirror.
- Beach Volleyball: Locals set up nets near the east end—you’re welcome to join in.
Insider Tip: Check out the small marketplace behind the beach on Fridays—local women sell handwoven straw hats and handmade jewelry carved from mahogany driftwood.
Lower Bay (Port Elizabeth Beach)
Why Go: If you just disembark from the ferry and want a quick dip, Lower Bay’s calm water is your best bet. The gradual slope means you can wade out well beyond your waist before the bottom drops off.
What to See: Fishing boats unloading; local kids diving off small piers into crystal-clear water; occasional sea turtles bobbing at the surface.
Dining Options: A handful of cafés lining the waterfront serve everything from roti wraps to lobster platters. Sunset here is spectacular—grab a rum punch (or nonalcoholic sorrel juice) and watch the sky change from saffron to magenta.
Nature & Adventure Activities
Mount Peggy Hike
Overview: At 388 feet (≈118 m), Mount Peggy is Bequia’s highest point, offering sweeping views of the Grenadines—Mustique, Canouan, Union Island, and St. Lucia on an exceptionally clear day.
Trailhead: Park at the junction of the main coastal road and the dirt track leading uphill behind Belmont Estate. A well-worn footpath zigzags up through dense mahogany and guava before emerging at a small ridge.
Difficulty: Moderate—expect about 45 minutes to 1 hour to summit and 30 minutes to descend. The trail can be slippery after rain, so waterproof hiking shoes are recommended.
What to Bring: At least 1 L of water, a small snack, sunscreen, and insect repellent. No facilities on the trail—plan accordingly.
Best Time: Early morning (6 a.m.–8 a.m.) to avoid midday heat. You’ll often see hummingbirds and bananaquits flitting between bromeliads lining the trail.
Water activities
Boat Tours & Snorkeling Trips
Grenadine Explorer Cruises
Full-day charters departing from Port Elizabeth. Visit remote snorkeling spots around Little Tobago and Mustique, enjoy a beach picnic on Tobago Cays, and sip rum punch while anchored in secluded coves.
Cost: ≈US $120–$150 per person (includes lunch, snorkeling gear, and sodas).
Insider Tip: Bring biodegradable sunscreen, reef-safe insect repellent, and a reusable water bottle. Operators strictly enforce eco-friendly policies to protect coral reefs.
Local Fishing Excursions
Half-day or full-day trips with experienced Bequia fishermen. Learn traditional baiting and trolling techniques, and—if luck is on your side—bring home fresh yellowfin tuna or wahoo for an island barbecue.
Cost: ≈XCD $300 (≈US $110) for a half day (up to five passengers); fish and ice provided.
Pro Tip: If you catch more than you can eat, ask the fisherfolk to fillet it and vacuum-seal portions for your return home.
Stand-Up Paddleboard Yoga (SUP Yoga)
A new offering in Friendship Bay, local instructors guide sunrise paddleboard yoga sessions (≈XCD $60/US $22 for a 90-minute class). Expect gentle stretches on the lagoon, with flamingo-pink sunrises reflecting off glassy water.
Booking: Reserve via WhatsApp at least two days in advance; limited to small groups of 4–6 participants.
Scuba Diving & Marine Life
Bequia Dive Center
The island’s only PADI Certified Dive Resort, located just east of Port Elizabeth. They run daily dives (≈US $100 for two tanks) to sites like 71 Dive Site (a collapsed sea cave), Tobago Cays wall, and Little Carriacou Bank.
What to See:
- Coral Reefs: Hard and soft coral gardens teeming with barracudas, turtles, and reef sharks.
- Pelagic Life: On certain drift dives (January–April), you may encounter humpback whales breaching in the distance.
Courses: Open Water certifications (≈US $450 for 4 days, including materials and rentals).
Insider Tip: Book your dives at least one day in advance to reserve gear, especially if you require specific sizes.
Join the party: Festivals & Special Events
Bequia Easter Regatta (Late March/Early April)
This is arguably the highlight of Bequia’s social calendar. For five days, wooden sloops and yachts from across the Eastern Caribbean converge for a series of day and night races. Expect late-night beach parties at Princess Margaret Beach, fireworks displays, and a palpable buzz throughout Port Elizabeth as visitors and locals alike line the waterfront to cheer on their favorite captains.
Pro Tips:
- Book lodging at least 4 months in advance if you plan to be here for Regatta week.
- Join the shore excursions on “Race Day”—local fishermen often offer impromptu snorkeling stops en route back to the marina.
- Sample local “fish cakes” (fried fritters made of saltfish and spices) sold from plywood stalls along the parade route.
Bequia Music Fest (Early February)
A newer event on the island, this 3-day festival brings reggae, soca, and calypso artists to the Belmont Estate grounds. Expect artisan food stalls, craft beer tastings, and a laid-back crowd of locals and visitors dancing under swaying palms.
Pro Tips:
- Purchase tickets online or via the festival’s official Facebook page at least 6 weeks ahead—camping options around Belmont are limited.
- Arrive early to take the rum distillery tour at Belmont Estate before the main stage opens.
Belmont Honey Festival (May)
Celebrating Bequia’s burgeoning eco-tourism scene, the Honey Festival features live demonstrations of sustainable beekeeping, honey tastings, and farm-to-table meals highlighting local produce and honey-infused recipes. Held at Belmont Estate’s apiary, this is a quieter affair than Regatta but offers wonderful insights into island conservation efforts.
Shop at Local Artisans & Craft Shops
Bequia Craft Market (Port Elizabeth)
Location: Behind the waterfront plaza, next to the small Anglican church.
Handwoven straw bags, wood-carved figurines, Delta-wood guitars, and colorful batiks. Many artisans are second- or third-generation craftspeople—purchasing directly ensures your dollars stay in the community.
Insider Tip: Saturday mornings from 8 a.m. to noon are best— artisans have fresh stock, and live calypso music often accompanies the market atmosphere.
Mae’s Love Jewellery & Souvenirs
A tiny shop on Lower Bay specializing in beaded jewelry made from local Conch shells, Mahogany seed pods, and Tagua nuts (vegetable ivory). Mae herself often sits at a small wooden table, stringing bracelets while chatting with visitors.
Why Go: See how each piece is crafted, and negotiate a custom necklace or anklet in just 10–15 minutes—no two items are ever exactly alike.
Practical travel tips for St. Vincent
Currency & Payments
Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD). Fixed exchange rate at XCD $2.70 = US $1.
ATMs & Credit Cards: One ScotiaBank ATM is located next to the ferry jetty in Port Elizabeth. Many shops, restaurants, and guesthouses accept Visa and Mastercard, but always carry small XCD notes for ferries, taxis, and beachside vendors who may not take cards.
Using USD: Common but not ideal—vendors often offer a poorer exchange (≈XCD $2.60 per US $1). When paying in USD, request change in XCD if possible.
What is the best time to visit Santo Bequia?
High Season (December–April)
Weather: Dry, sunny days with average highs around 29–31 °C (84–88 °F) and cool, breezy trade winds.
Why Go: Perfect for beach days, snorkeling, and sailing without interruption. Whale watching (humpback whales pass through Grenadine waters) is often at its peak in January–March.
Crowds & Costs: Accommodation fills quickly during Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter week (especially because of the Easter Regatta). Book at least 3–4 months in advance if you plan to arrive in March or April.
Shoulder Season (May & November)
Weather: Mostly sunny, with occasional brief showers. Trade winds remain consistent, keeping humidity comfortable.
Why Go: Fewer tourists, lower rates on guesthouses, and still excellent conditions for swimming, hiking, and exploring.
Caution: Firefly season (May–June) brings short evening rain showers, but they rarely disrupt daytime plans.
Off-Peak (June–October)
Weather: Afternoon showers are more common, especially from August–September.
Why Go: You’ll find rock-bottom rates on accommodations, and beaches are virtually empty.
Caution: Hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30. Keep an eye on regional forecasts if traveling between August and October. Most charter boat captains and tour operators will issue timely updates if any system approaches.
Safety & Health
General Safety: Bequia is very safe. Crime is extremely low.
Mosquito & Insect Precautions: Dengue and chikungunya are present year-round. Use insect repellent with DEET, wear long sleeves/pants at dusk and dawn, and ask your guesthouse if they schedule fogging treatments.
Medical Services: A small health clinic near Lower Bay offers basic care; serious emergencies require air evacuation to Kingstown or St. Lucia. Purchase travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
How to get to Bequia
By sea
Ferry from Kingstown (St. Vincent)
Departs: Kingstown Ferry Terminal (downtown).
Duration: Approximately 1 hour (usually 3 round-trips daily in high season; fewer in low season).
Cost: Around XCD $36 (≈US $13) one way.
Tip: Arrive at least 30 minutes before departure. If you’re traveling with luggage, expect ferry staff to stack bags on the cabin floor.
Private Yacht
Bequia’s Admiralty Bay is a popular anchorage for cruising yachts in the Eastern Caribbean. If you’re sailing yourself or chartering, note that customs and immigration are handled at Bequia’s customs house (a short dinghy ride to shore), so plan to clear in before arriving at a mooring ball.
Inter-Island Day Boats
Comfortable and on a budget, small “open boats” depart from Ashton (northern St. Vincent) and drop passengers in Friendship Bay. These boats run at the captain’s discretion, usually in the early morning, and cost around XCD $25–$30 (≈US $9–$11). Expect a bumpy ride if the sea is choppy—good for thrill-seekers, not faint-hearted.
By Air
Charter Flights / Seaplanes
Several operators (e.g., SVG Air, Mustique Airways) offer 15–20 minute flights from Argyle International Airport (SVD) to Bequia. These are pricier (≈US $150–$200 one way) but perfect if you’re short on time. Flights land on Bequia’s grass airstrip next to Lower Bay.
How to get around Bequia
Walking
Port Elizabeth and Friendship Bay are entirely walkable. The main road that loops around the island is just 7 miles (≈11 km), so if you’re feeling energetic, you can hike between beaches. Bring sturdy sandals or walking shoes—while many lanes are flat, occasional rock gardens and steep hills can be challenging in flip-flops.
Taxis
Bright yellow vans with “TAXI” emblazoned in black dots are the primary form of public transport. No meters—fares are fixed regionally (e.g., Port Elizabeth → Princess Margaret Beach = XCD $5 ≈US $1.85 per person). Always confirm the fare before climbing in. Vans wait at the bay’s grassy knoll behind the jetty; if you wave one down on the road, be prepared to share with up to five other passengers.
Car/Jeep Rental
A handful of local operators rent SUVs and small cars by the day (≈US $80–$100 for a small jeep). Roads are narrow and often unpaved, so 4×4 vehicles are recommended if you plan to explore beyond Port Elizabeth. Rental agencies will usually drop off and pick up from your guesthouse.
Scooters & Mopeds
Available for rent at a few shops in Port Elizabeth (≈US $40–$50/day plus a small deposit). Helmets are provided; local roads can be winding, so ride cautiously. Mopeds are ideal for solo travelers or couples looking to zip between beaches.
Internet & Connectivity
Local SIM Cards: Flow and Digicel both offer prepaid SIMs with data packages (2 GB ≈XCD $35). Purchase at the Port Elizabeth Craft Market or ask your guesthouse host to pick one up. Coverage on Bequia is decent, though speeds may drop at night.
Wi-Fi: Many guesthouses and cafés (e.g., Jacquot’s Café on Port Elizabeth Beach) offer complimentary Wi-Fi. Speeds are generally adequate for messaging and light browsing but may falter during peak evening hours.
What's the biggest challenge for the conscious traveler?
Plastic Reduction: Bequia’s waters are pristine—help keep them that way by refusing single-use plastics. Bring a refillable bottle, and carry refillable toiletry containers. Some cafés and bars provide free water refills.
Support Local Businesses: Purchase crafts directly from artisans at the Bequia Craft Market; eat at small family-run restaurants like Duffy’s Love Shack and Jacquot’s Café. Hire local guides for hikes and boat tours.
Respect Local Customs: Always ask before photographing people, especially in rural areas or during church services. When visiting religious sites, dress modestly (shoulders covered, no shorts or mini-skirts).
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